xrs only smog block off kit for my honda 230L question

Hi there i just got the xrs smog block off kit for my honda 230L.
some of you are probalby wondering why i am tampering with it?

well i had the bike for a few months now and everyone i run into while riding askes what the heck is that can on the side of your bike.? and besides that i dont like cleaning the mud behind it when it gets dirty... so i have a few questions... i took the canister and the valve purge control off and i capped the two vacuum nipples on the carborator, no problem... how ever my question is there is a T i am suppose to cap and that line that it says i cap off goes to the air suction, valve it also comes with a alumnion cap that i am suppose install over the resulting air pump port on the side of the engine...


i took a few pics of what i did and i am not really sure about because if i do put that cap where i think it goes then i have a stainless line that i dont know what to do with..

https://2img.net/r/ihimizer/img341/989/1002476t.jpg
https://2img.net/r/ihimizer/img541/2459/1002477.jpg
https://2img.net/r/ihimizer/img204/1029/1002478p.jpg
https://2img.net/r/ihimizer/img412/3036/1002479g.jpg

i just talked to xrs only and they say that the little aluminum billet cap that i am holding on my finger and the one that is on the seat of my bike is to plug the hole on top of the piston and removes this whole air suction valve assymbly.. how ever in the directions it does not say to remove that but they said to on the phone.... im just scared i dont want to burn my motor up by removing something i shouldnt. here is the prints of the assymbly.

http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/1/Make/Honda/YearID/49/Year/2008/ModelID/8109/Model/CRF230L/GroupID/386274/Group/AIR_SUCTION_VALVE_

and here is the website where i got the parts.

http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/1/Make/Honda/YearID/49/Year/2008/ModelID/8109/Model/CRF230L

Here is a better set of instructions copied from another forum.


Now that we've figured out exactly how to remove all the emissions junk,
and because the XRsOnly instructions suck so bad, this post will become
the AUTHORITATIVE 230L GUCRI -- #1 on the internet. So here is the step by step
procedure, and you guys please correct me if anything is missing or
wrong.

To avoid any confusion, a few parts definitions:

• The evaporator can is of course that obnoxious black cylinder laying on the left side of the engine
  
• The purge control valve is that black disk just behind and above the evaporator can
  
• The pair control valve or "smog pump" is the piece hanging from the frame just below the gas tank, that blows filtered air into the exhaust port.
  
• The air cutoff valve is part of the carb, on the right side of it with the outlet pointing upward.
  

Mandatory
parts you will need:

• Some sort of gas tank vent, the coolest one being an old motocross tank vent
  that clips to the crossbar, or one of those billet vents you attach to
  an inch of hose, a Canadian gas cap, or just a zip-tie or something to
  tuck the vent line out of the way
  
• Two vacuum caps for a couple of extra nipples that come out of the carb
  

Optional
parts:

• Fancy XRsOnly billet exhaust port blocker
  
• Silver colored bolts for the left crankcase cover (in Xrs kit)
  
• Extremely small shim (like 0.5mm thick, maybe 4mm diameter) for the carb needle (in kit)
  

Step 1 -
Evaporator Can Removal

First decide how you are going to vent the gas tank, and unplug the gas tank line from the lower back of the
evaporator can. Pull it out (or shorten it, tuck it in front of the
tank, clip it somewhere, use your billet vent, etc..) depending on your
gas tank vent method.

Disconnect the larger diameter line that goes from the back of the evaporator can to the purge control valve.

Pull out the two lines that come out the front of the evaporator can (they
are just a vent and drain). There is a small drain line holder on the
frame that is ugly. Grind it off and paint the bare spot.

Remove the evaporator can and bracket, and set them aside. Be sure to save the
bracket and spacers; you will reuse one later. If you have the silver
crankcase bolts, use them to replace the black ones.

If you only want to remove the evaporator can, it's perfectly fine to stop here and
just cap off the purge control valve.

Step 2 - Purge Control
Valve Removal

Now would be a good time to remove the side
panels/seat/tank so you can get to everything easily.

Disconnect both lines that go from the purge control valve to the carb. Cap the
two nipples coming out of the front of the carb.

Remove the purge control valve and bracket. The bracket connects to the battery
box, and part of that bracket is a 1/2" spacer needed for the battery
box to mount properly to the frame. Dig through your evaporator can
bracketry and find the ideal spacer for your battery box, and replace
the bolt.

Step 3 - Smog Pump (pair control valve) Removal

On the left side of the bike (near where the purge control valve was)
there's the secondary air filter strapped to an ugly frame tab.
Disconnect the air line from the smog pump, slip the air filter off the
frame tab, and pull the filter and hose out.

If you are going to install a shim under the carb needle, go ahead and do it now. Before
you take the diaphragm cover off, note how the vacuum line coming from
the air cutoff valve curves around it. Shim installation is a uh,
simple matter of removing the cover, spring,
small white plastic piece, and needle. Thread the needle through the
shim, and get everything lined up again, and put the cover back on,
compressing the spring. "Installation is the reverse of removal"

Notice the vacuum hose coming out of the right side of the smog pump. Remove this
hose and carefully peel off the protective sleeve (it is only glued to
the hose at the ends). It helps to slit the sleeve longitudinally then
just slowwwly peel it off. This is now the only vacuum hose you need,
and it is the perfect length.

Disconnect the vacuum lines from the intake boot and air cutoff valve (they are tied together with that
T-fitting; take the whole mess out). Take your fresh-peeled vacuum
line, hook it to the air cutoff valve, curve it around the diaphragm
cover just like the original line, and connect the other end directly to
the nipple on the left side of the intake boot. (Thanks hoopty91 for
setting us straight on that)

Disconnect the other air line from the smog pump, unbolt the smog pump hanger, and
remove it. Unbolt and remove the air supply pipe from the cylinder
head. If you have the XRsOnly aluminum cap, bolt it to the cylinder
head to plug the hole.

Reinstall your tank, seat and side panels and go for a ride on your garbage-free
bike. Look at the tangled pile of hoses and parts you removed, and
laugh maniacally.

thankyou boogie for the info. it sure did make it clear so i finished it all besides the shimming the needle.. what are the chances of my motor prematuring quicker or failing or ruining it by doing this smog block off?

so i took a picture of the stuff that was removed with this smog block off kit.. its easy to do i just wish xrs only smog block kit instructions were more in detail all they talk about removing is the black evaporator can and the purge valve. it did not say anything about the air suction valve and the filter...

unless i did it wrong and i should not of removed what i did i dont know..?


https://2img.net/r/ihimizer/img192/2655/1002486w.jpg
https://2img.net/r/ihimizer/img807/4383/1002487.jpg
https://2img.net/r/ihimizer/img6/1662/1002482v.jpg




chris

You did great by removing all of the emissions stuff and I don't think you've compromised anything by doing so.

If you haven't re-jetted yet, that would be next on the list of "to do's"

ya i just got don running it with ut putting the shim for the needle that was given in the kit.. it seems that when at slow/low idle in first gear when i try to give it gass and pop a wheele it tends to hesitate just a little perhaps thats from removing all the stuff and not adding the shim?