Rear brakes

Do you really need them?

After fighting with the dealership over a 20dollar piece for almost a month, I finally got it and got the bike all put back together. Now I have no rear brakes. Don't know what the hell i did. It's a sealed system so don't know how i could have messed it up. I do know I ended up pushing the caliper in further than I needed, but that shouldn't have mattered.
Measured the pads and decided they need to be replaced. Guess I'll start there, then i just don't know.

* Another damn month of no riding.

Yes
You need them. My big XR won't turn without an occasional tap of the rear to slide it around. On dirt a front brake only stoppy is asking for trouble, on the street a front brake only is not something I'd want to see you get hurt for.

Last time I changed my rear tire my pistons got stuck because I pushed them in too far. Had to take the wheel off (rotor out of brake caliper) and release them by messing with them and gently putting pressure on.

Any chance you got a air bubble when bleeding or just changing the pads? Not a techy solution, but just a thoughtful rant... LOL

Later,

griz

Well....I threw some new pads in. Boy did it need it, and I still have absolutely no pressure in there. I cracked the master cylinder and poured some fluid in (didn't need any) and also cracked the bleeder bolt. Kinda hard to bleed it when there is no pressure. Just dribbled out. Pretty sure I need to rebuild the master cylinder now. Only $38, but how did I damage it when I would have had to push in the piston that much anyway to install the new pads? I'm lost and I also don't want to do the work and screw it up more. Not sure what I'm going to do.

I guess I'll go post in the dreaded forum. sorry, but with all the new a$$ho#@S I don't like it anymore.

Sorry it didn't work out for you.

griz901 wrote:

Sorry it didn't work out for you.

Wait a minute, if you are bleeding you won't get pressure.... right? Not until you get clear fluid and no bubbles then close bleeder, then cap reservoir. Then shouldn't there be pressure?

Good spring project for my ride.... I need new pads anyway...

http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/maintenance/brakes.htm

griz

Hmmm...this is going to sound stupid, but I've never bleed brakes.

Always thought you pumped pedal then held down then opened bleeder then closed bleeder before letting go of pedal. Repeat until done. Those directions said to leave open and pump away. Always thought air would be drawn in when you let go...like a cars. Maybe i'll try it like those directions.

Inspector wrote:

Hmmm...this is going to sound stupid, but I've never bleed brakes.

Always thought you pumped pedal then held down then opened bleeder then closed bleeder before letting go of pedal. Repeat until done. Those directions said to leave open and pump away. Always thought air would be drawn in when you let go...like a cars. Maybe i'll try it like those directions.

You are correct in your method of bleeding. (pump lever, hold down, crack bleeder, close bleeder, release lever). You can also try a method called "gravity bleeding" just open bleeder, open master cylinder, keep master cylinder full, and let gravity do the work. Takes much longer, but maybe worth a try if nothing else is working. Good luck.

Thanks guys...I think I got it. Had to pump the crap out of it. My guess is there was just a big air bubble in there. Need to ride around the block, but think it's good.

*griz..either i just can't read or those directions where wrong. They led me to believe to "open, pump then close when done" I did the Relaytech way.

You can force some air bubbles out by spreading open the pads with a flat screwdriver. Leave the bleeder closed and cap loose. This forces the air to the master. I do this a few times to start before I bleed or pump. You probably sucked a little air when the pads were out or the worn pads came together without the rotor in between. the reservoir just doesn't hold enough fluid to handle the piston extending out a ways. Sometimes if the pistons on brakes or hydraulic clutches have a lot of miles or have rust pitting on them putting them in a new position will ruin the seals. This is one reason a lot of brake and clutch shops recommend changing the calipers/slave and Master at the same time.

Inspector wrote:

Thanks guys...I think I got it. Had to pump the crap out of it. My guess is there was just a big air bubble in there. Need to ride around the block, but think it's good.

*griz..either i just can't read or those directions where wrong. They led me to believe to "open, pump then close when done" I did the Relaytech way.

Sorry man, glad its all good now.

Inspector wrote:

Hmmm...this is going to sound stupid, but I've never bleed brakes.

Always thought you pumped pedal then held down then opened bleeder then closed bleeder before letting go of pedal. Repeat until done. Those directions said to leave open and pump away. Always thought air would be drawn in when you let go...like a cars. Maybe i'll try it like those directions.

ok, if you have a brake bleeding kit you can open bleeder and pump away watching to make sure resivour doesnt run dry. it is hard to explain the way it works without being able to show someone in person. the kit is basicly a container and a vacum hose. put the vacume hose on brake bleeder then the other end in the container filled above the end of the vacume hose with brake fluid and open bleeder. then pump the pedal. then when done close the bleeder and remove the tube. the way it works is the master is going to suck from the least resistance wich is the resivour, and then push into the container. if the hose in the container comes above the fluid level then you will get air into the system. the master cylinder wont suck from the container because it is so much further away then the resivour. I would only advise doing it this way if you are by yourself and cant reach the pedal and the bleeder at the same time. it works well, just leaves lots of room for error. if anyone wants to no more, i might beable to do a better right up with picks. this works well with cars because you cant open the bleeder and pump the brakes at the same time when you are by yourself.

Glad to hear you got it fixed.

I use these on my car. Have not used them on my bike tho.

http://speedbleeder.com/Motorcycle%20Sizes.htm

I just have a big syringe and a piece of tube that fits over the bleed nipple to back bleed the system. I have the left hand rear break and foot peddle so its a pain but works great. Glad ya got it working Inspector. If i were here I would have been glad to help.