Truck running like a champ!

Thanks guys!!

Don't really know what I did. My attention span isn't the greatest, lol.
Took the solenoid thingy off. Looked clean, but sprayed it down any way.
Took off the hose that goes to the air cleaner and looked inside at the screen looking thingy. That looked spic-n-span so didn't touch that.
Took off the throttle body. Looked nasty but not sticking. Sprayed the hell out of it and cleaned it all up.

Did all that a couple of days ago and finally ran to the store today in her. No hurky-jerky at all!!!! Started screaming like a little school girl. My son thought I was having an attack or something.

*Still need a radiator and haven't tested the temp gauge yet to see if it's that or the sender. Not exactly sure where, when, or how yet. Something about finding it? Grounding something? LOL!

That's excellent! Glad is it working well for you. The sending unit is usually a cheap fix, under $10, so I would start there, just because getting to the gauge can be a problem, having to remove some of the dash and what not. We'll make a proper service tech out of you yet! Have a great Thanksgiving.

Awww man! It was good for a day and a half. Now it's back to the way it was. This weekend I'll try and clean that one part up again. If it works.....then I'll at least know what to replace.

OK more questions.

Where is the pickup for the speedo? During the day it went out on me. Later that night it was mysteriously working. I replaced all the stuff for the rear drum brakes and was wondering if I may have done something to mess it up.

Cleaned the AIC(?) again and it didn't help. Not sure how it works, but am assuming it is either fully open or closed. I unplugged it and the truck wouldn't run without lots of gas. So does that mean it is working?

hello inspector, fill me in, i must have missed a conversation, probably during a ride i missed, my bad. whats the make, modle, and year of your truck, and the problem you are having in detail. i may be able to help out.

1990 Ford Ranger 2wd, manual, 2.3l

Starts up and idles great. If I let it lug along with no gas, runs great. Step on the gas and it wants to die until I catch it with the clutch. Give it lots o gas and let of clutch slow...ok. Second gear hardly noticeable. Seems to be worse when the engine is cold, but still once in awhile when it's warmer.
If i'm motoring along in the parking lot in first with my foot on the gas sometimes...same thing, have to catch it with the clutch or it chugs really bad. Seems to do it in any gear, but 1st is the only one where i have to catch it. Also the higher the gear the less it is noticeable.

*i gots more problems, lol. just trying to fix one at a time.

ok, i wil do some polking around in our manuals and on line at work, mazda started running the rangers for there pick ups starting in 94, so i wont have the exact manual, but we have all data and i will give it a look. sounds like you already cleaned the idle air control motor, could still be the cause but was a good place to start. also have a ford guy here i work with, will shoot it his way. i will see waht i come up with. Also you might need to do a TPS sweep, (throatle position senser). does it feel like it is a throatle issue?

How would I know if it was throttle? I want to say no cause it doesn't happen when applying more gas, only under decel and constant gas.

*check engine light used to come on and go off regularly during driving, was told by the previous owner that it was the CO2 sensor. this morning it just stayed on (was assuming cause it's like 25 deg outside) after about a 1/2 mile of driving. Funny thing is i didn't feel the chugging till about a 1/4 mile from the house,

OK here we go, if it has a check engine light on we need to know what code is in it, if it was a o2 senser code, that could be your problem, either the senser is not working correctly or we have a lean condition wich could be fuel delivery or vaccum leak. so first get yourself some brake clean and squirty around intake, airboots ect. see if the idle fluctuates. A lean condiotion can cause jerking, bucking and stalling concerns among others. if you have the ability to look at o2 senser data we need to know what that is doing. if not, we will wing it. the IAC motor also is a known problem among the older trucks, will act up more when ambient temp is low and cold. We need to try and replace it with a known good or a new one. Also i found out that these trucks have 2 fuel filters, most people dont know that and only one gets replaced. the one that is most common is the one on the front of the frame rail, believe it to be on drivers side. it is a inline metal filter. the one commonly forgoton about is on the frame by the tank, is a screw on type filter kinda like a oil filter. make sure these also get replaced. I hope i am helping and not scrambling brain cells, (my spelling sucks so hang in there). Oh and i know by expireince, beer can help, not so much with doing a good job, but makes it funner if you drink alot, can have adverce affects, so drink with caution.....

My ears are open so shot me any questions you may have, fords are not down my alley, but i know a thing or two. Automotive tech is my feild of expertice. 15 years as a tech iin a dealership, so i might beable to help.( just wanted you to know i aint a shade tree mech.) So get them tools turning and leats fix something ! woo whoooo

Alright. these things are going to take time (like at least a week). I'll post up my finds.

*I don't think it's a vacuum leak, but since that is the cheapest, I'll try that along with replacing both filters. I still want to say it's the AIC only because I cleaned that and the throttle body up and it ran great for that day. Tried cleaning it again but no change.

that works, my frikin computer is on the fritz, think i cought a virus, may take a day or too to get figured out, been useing work computer ! So iif you have a question ask, might take me a a day or 2 to respond. Good luck

Shane

if ya can't fix it with a hammer, it's an electrical problem !!!

^lol

*here's a question. If the check engine light comes on then goes and stays off......does it store the code? Or is there only a code in there if the light stays on?

yep, the computer should store a memorized code, as long as it was not cleard by someone or the battery was disconected. you should be able to pull codes by counting slow and fast flashes from the light in the dash. i will try and find this out tommarow and let you know. it will involve grounding a wire or pluging in a conector, ect. if i can find a diagram i will try and post it if i can figure it out.

ok , so manualy pulling a code on your truck is going to be tricky, not as easy as i thought. how technical are you and do you own and know how to use a anolog volt meter ? if not, take it to a shop and have a code pulled. sometimes places like napa, auto zone, ect will do it free of charge, ( i cant believe i am actually telling someone to do this) Dont listen to any of there diagnosis crap, you just want the code. they all think they are experts in the field of diagnosing a vehicle because they can work the little thingy they plug into it. Belive me, there is alot more to it than that. the scanner is just a tool ! and you may still just be dealing with a IAC problem.

( Please god forgive me for the wrong doing in sending poor inspector to a slock house to have codes pulled , its for the good of free car repairs, Amen ! )

LOL!!

Been reading up on the pulling of ODB1 codes. It actually looks fairly straight forward assuming I can find the correct wires. I'll figure something out this weekend I'm hoping.

*I have two weeks off for Christmas (starting week after next), not sure if I'm going to work on the truck or tear into the bike and grease the rear end.

Holy hell and bujesus. the thing is just spitting codes. I wrote down the numbers....but the flashes weren't short and long so don't know what goes to what. If they are all supposed to be 2digit codes, I'm missing a number.

*maybe I should read up on clearing the codes then starting over on a short run?

5,7,5,7,1,1,4,3,3,4,1,6,3,6,6,1,4,3,3,4,1,6,3,6,6,
There did seem to be either longer or short pauses inbetween some numbers, but way to hard to read. will try again.

edit....Ok I think I got them seperated. The only thing i'm not sure on (aside from the whole thing, lol) is the first "1" Maybe this is the seperator for continues memory codes
57, 57 -1- 14, 33, 41, 63, 66, 14, 33, 41, 63, 66

cause i got nothing else to do....
57 axod circuit failure
14 engine rpm signal fault or PIP circuit failure
33 throttle positioner sensor noisy/harsh on line
41 oxygen sensor circuit indicates system always lean
63 throttle positioner circuit below minimum voltage
66 mass air flow sensor circuit below minimum voltage

ok, we need to find out what starts a number and what seperates it for the next number, there are some descriptions of this, once you figure it out it will be easy and then you will be a pro. i do know that code 11 is a start code and means nothing, just that the codes are starting over, i dont know if i can explain this with out confuseing you, it may look like alot of codes, but may onlt be a couple. every code is going to be a 2 didget code i believe, if you can, take a 2 min video of the light and post it on here and i can determin what they are, if not look it up, i cant get in the shop today, if you havent got it by monday then i can.

clearing the codes is a good idea, check them as soon as the light resets, if ran longer, false codes could be set. these older rigs can be tricky, there on board diagnostics is very crud. dont get frustrated with it, even the best had to learn this at one point.

I edited my post. Maybe I'll go check for vacumm leaks.

*Don't sit at the computer all day!!

ok, the codes should repeat themselves, and if that is all the codes i am sure there are some false codes in there, disconect the battery, then turn the key to the on position and let it sit for 5 min, then turn the key off and hook the battery back up, this should clear all codes and any adaptive learn the pcm has saved. then drive and see what codes reset.

Its frickin cold out side, and i have to go fix my sisters car, i am procrastinating, so if i am on this thing it makes me look busy, besides looking for a new set of tires is a hole lot more fun than being cold ! ( I like the looks of the dunlops 606's )

that's what I run. Have a couple of buddies on KLR's that love them.

Sprayed brake cleaner all over throttle body, air hoses, etc. and no change in idle

cleared the codes. The first set stayed in there. Assuming they only clear with repeated start-ups

63 Was the only code in there this time. Only went into town and back on the freeway. Didn't see the check engine light come on. Probably won't until Monday morning. (i did check before leaving and I got 11, with is system clear?)

Reading up and 63 is- throttle positioner circuit below minimum voltage

Now what. LOL

*next week I should be replacing--radiator, windshield washer motor and temp sending sensor. What else should I do?

Also what are these? (they were extra parts when I did the rear drum brakes.)

Ok code 11 is a start code, means nothing, if you only had code 11 that would mean everything is ok. if you are getting a code 63 and it is for the tps then we ( you ) need to do a tps sweep with a ohm meter and also check voltages. this will make your truck do alot of funny things if it isnt right, its a major pcm input. its going to take some reading of a manual to to figure out what pins to prob and what they are supposed to be reading. do you have a manual or access to something on the internet. There should be tests specificly for this sensor, when you or i find them we will do that next. Also by chance did you clean the throtle body, on some of the ford trucks this was a big no no because they coted them and when you cleaned them this coating came off with it, and there is no way to fix it other than replace the TB. there should be a sticker on the inside of the throat saying that.

sounds like we might be getting some were now